Everyone talks about the pollution in China. I am not sure any of us has really addressed this in much detail...and I won't here. All I wanted to say is that as I look out the window of my office today, I can't see beyond the building that is right next door. Usually, I can a soccer field that is near the office as well as numerous buildings on campus and beyond but today, for whatever reason, the whole city is caught in a brown, dust-like fog. We thought it would rain today but so far only more and more dust particles and heavy air.
Jeff went out for a run; I can't imagine that he' go far.
Beyond the trees, I see absolutely nothing though I can hear construction site noise on three sides. Not sure why the weather suddenly changed today; yesterday it was bright and in the 70s but today we could cut the air with a knife.
Ah, spring in Xi'an!
Monday, April 7, 2008
Thursday, April 3, 2008
A Field Trip at School By Julia
Prologue: Today, I had a field trip with my class. Here are some of the things we did but also how I felt about the trip.
This afternoon we walked from our school to Jiaotong University. It took about 20 minutes to get there. Since everyone was singing on our walk there, I didn't get tired at all. Although I didn't know the words and couldn't sing, it was very pretty. My teacher had a tiny silver whistle to keep the kids attention (there are about 65 kids in my class and there were only two teachers). The whole first grade went on this trip and our class got to be at the front of the line.
The most important thing in China is sharing food, and that is what we all did on our field trip. At different points during our field trip we would stop and share our food ( three quarters of what I ate was from other kids). The snacks: included sugar-coated dried fruit, chips (that's what I brought), mousse jelly (yogurt on the top, jello on the bottom and fruit in the middle). My favorite new snack was afrench fry like snack coated with tomato.
We also did a lot of playing which included: a tag-like game where the person who is it wears a crown, catching something that felt like silk that was from a dandolion.
The biggest difference between American and Chinese kids is that Chinese kids cooperate a lot more than American kids. They share a lot, they form lines easily, they usually hold hands as we exit the school gates and at recess time, they always play together nicely. Maybe it is because of China's population; with so many people, they need to cooperate more.
The reason I liked this trip so much was the feasting and the playing. I am still struggling with trying to know what people are saying to me because I feel badly if I don't answer them. Here are some of the words and sentences I now know in Chinese and use almost every day:
1. hello
2. let's go outside and play
3. I am Julia ...wo shi Julia
4. i need to go to the bathroom...wo men cho cho wen ba...
5. can i borrow your pencil...je wo ee jer bee
6. good bye...zi dian
7. my sister's name is hana...ta shi hana.
8. hello teacher...lou shi how
9. i love my mom, dad and sister..wo i eye...mamam,..wo eye..baba...wo eye jeje
10. do not touch me! ..ba dong..wo
11. see you tomorrow...ming tien jen
12. can you or can you not give me homework today....ni neng bu neng gao su wo jia ting zuo ye.
So...as you can see, I am really starting to speak Chinese...
I miss you all...my family, my class and all of my friends!!!
This afternoon we walked from our school to Jiaotong University. It took about 20 minutes to get there. Since everyone was singing on our walk there, I didn't get tired at all. Although I didn't know the words and couldn't sing, it was very pretty. My teacher had a tiny silver whistle to keep the kids attention (there are about 65 kids in my class and there were only two teachers). The whole first grade went on this trip and our class got to be at the front of the line.
The most important thing in China is sharing food, and that is what we all did on our field trip. At different points during our field trip we would stop and share our food ( three quarters of what I ate was from other kids). The snacks: included sugar-coated dried fruit, chips (that's what I brought), mousse jelly (yogurt on the top, jello on the bottom and fruit in the middle). My favorite new snack was afrench fry like snack coated with tomato.
We also did a lot of playing which included: a tag-like game where the person who is it wears a crown, catching something that felt like silk that was from a dandolion.
The biggest difference between American and Chinese kids is that Chinese kids cooperate a lot more than American kids. They share a lot, they form lines easily, they usually hold hands as we exit the school gates and at recess time, they always play together nicely. Maybe it is because of China's population; with so many people, they need to cooperate more.
The reason I liked this trip so much was the feasting and the playing. I am still struggling with trying to know what people are saying to me because I feel badly if I don't answer them. Here are some of the words and sentences I now know in Chinese and use almost every day:
1. hello
2. let's go outside and play
3. I am Julia ...wo shi Julia
4. i need to go to the bathroom...wo men cho cho wen ba...
5. can i borrow your pencil...je wo ee jer bee
6. good bye...zi dian
7. my sister's name is hana...ta shi hana.
8. hello teacher...lou shi how
9. i love my mom, dad and sister..wo i eye...mamam,..wo eye..baba...wo eye jeje
10. do not touch me! ..ba dong..wo
11. see you tomorrow...ming tien jen
12. can you or can you not give me homework today....ni neng bu neng gao su wo jia ting zuo ye.
So...as you can see, I am really starting to speak Chinese...
I miss you all...my family, my class and all of my friends!!!
Friday, March 28, 2008
The Uses of Adversity
A long time ago, back in our Polish Communist days, I read a good deal of Timothy Garton Ash who wrote a great essay about Uses of Adversity and life in communist countries. I find it so relevant here.
I had a most interesting class today and the long and short of it is that already (after a brief 6 weeks), I have discovered that there are least two Chinas. Both live side by side, everyone knows they both exist, they accept this and continue to live as if there were really only one China. The one China is the one that everyone talks about; it is not just the official line, but it is also what people tell themselves, everyday and on lots of levels. There are too many examples to focus on one but what happens is that everyone is searching, desperately for everything to work out, go smoothly, be positive and good...something they can say, "yes this is working," "see our economy is moving forward", peace will prevail in the world. This official China and the one that exists politically but also the one adopted my most in society.
The other China is what really happens everyday and everyone knows it. ..it is that life here remains so hard, people are struggling, their apartments are so small and every decision has to be approved by someone. Their lives are controlled, decisions are imposed on them, and they know their limits. Everyone is aware of this second reality but they also know that there is so little or nothing they can do to change this. So, why acknowledge it? What can one person do to change a place/culture/society like China. This is the reality: things don't work as the plan suggests, most people cannot buy most of the luxury goods that fill the shop and everyone is "coloring within the lines" only because they know what will happen if they don't. Yet, this reality is truly so awful and so unlikely to change, why bother getting it to it..why bother even acknowledging it. Instead, focus on the positive and go around the lines when you can and hope you don't get caught.
I learned much of my Polish by hearing and practising how to complain about communist life, politics and the unfairness of the world. I would sit with friends and hear about their lives, the choices they were forced to make, the lack of opportunities and their sacrifices and the indignity they had to face in so many ways we as Americans could not imagine.. Often, there was not even a bathroom in the apartment...but at these times, when we were all together, eating, drinking and bonding...nothing else seemed to matter. At least together we had reality and at least when we were together we were not forced to "live within the lie".
There were many uses and lessons for adversity.
Today was the first day that a few students confided in me that they too acknowledged this second China...moreover, they long for change and even more opening up. I don't think they had anything particular in mind but I just think they long for more opportunity to express themselves as individuals.
Yet, if you come here for a short visit, I think you would be most surprised by the smiles, the kindness and the optimism...everyone is indeed hopeful and China will march on and they will march together. Where the Chinese march to and how long it takes is anyone's guess but what is not is that even if they don't say it or won't even directly address the multitude of problems, discomfort or indignities they face, everyone, underneath it all, knows there are at least two Chinas.
I continue to wonder if I will have any of these Poland-like bonding sessions, will our knowledge of China stay as superficial as some would like it to be...Jeff says that he will not go to another huge feast where we all sit around the table and compliment each other excessively and then eat and eat...and at the end share some "real thoughts" through toasts.
I can see what adversity has done for so many Chinese..they are incredibly hard working and unbelievably competitive (imagine how difficult everything is when you have to compete against 1.3 billion) but what else will it do...for them? our girls? us?
I had a most interesting class today and the long and short of it is that already (after a brief 6 weeks), I have discovered that there are least two Chinas. Both live side by side, everyone knows they both exist, they accept this and continue to live as if there were really only one China. The one China is the one that everyone talks about; it is not just the official line, but it is also what people tell themselves, everyday and on lots of levels. There are too many examples to focus on one but what happens is that everyone is searching, desperately for everything to work out, go smoothly, be positive and good...something they can say, "yes this is working," "see our economy is moving forward", peace will prevail in the world. This official China and the one that exists politically but also the one adopted my most in society.
The other China is what really happens everyday and everyone knows it. ..it is that life here remains so hard, people are struggling, their apartments are so small and every decision has to be approved by someone. Their lives are controlled, decisions are imposed on them, and they know their limits. Everyone is aware of this second reality but they also know that there is so little or nothing they can do to change this. So, why acknowledge it? What can one person do to change a place/culture/society like China. This is the reality: things don't work as the plan suggests, most people cannot buy most of the luxury goods that fill the shop and everyone is "coloring within the lines" only because they know what will happen if they don't. Yet, this reality is truly so awful and so unlikely to change, why bother getting it to it..why bother even acknowledging it. Instead, focus on the positive and go around the lines when you can and hope you don't get caught.
I learned much of my Polish by hearing and practising how to complain about communist life, politics and the unfairness of the world. I would sit with friends and hear about their lives, the choices they were forced to make, the lack of opportunities and their sacrifices and the indignity they had to face in so many ways we as Americans could not imagine.. Often, there was not even a bathroom in the apartment...but at these times, when we were all together, eating, drinking and bonding...nothing else seemed to matter. At least together we had reality and at least when we were together we were not forced to "live within the lie".
There were many uses and lessons for adversity.
Today was the first day that a few students confided in me that they too acknowledged this second China...moreover, they long for change and even more opening up. I don't think they had anything particular in mind but I just think they long for more opportunity to express themselves as individuals.
Yet, if you come here for a short visit, I think you would be most surprised by the smiles, the kindness and the optimism...everyone is indeed hopeful and China will march on and they will march together. Where the Chinese march to and how long it takes is anyone's guess but what is not is that even if they don't say it or won't even directly address the multitude of problems, discomfort or indignities they face, everyone, underneath it all, knows there are at least two Chinas.
I continue to wonder if I will have any of these Poland-like bonding sessions, will our knowledge of China stay as superficial as some would like it to be...Jeff says that he will not go to another huge feast where we all sit around the table and compliment each other excessively and then eat and eat...and at the end share some "real thoughts" through toasts.
I can see what adversity has done for so many Chinese..they are incredibly hard working and unbelievably competitive (imagine how difficult everything is when you have to compete against 1.3 billion) but what else will it do...for them? our girls? us?
Pingyao
We took our first trip out of Xi’an last week to the town of Pingyao, an incredibly quaint UNESCO world heritage site that has an unique collection of consistent Ming / Qing era architecture, within the reach of an overnight train from Xian. Rather than add to the number of words on this blog, as it seems we've been a bit wordy of late, I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking...
Here are my travel partners adapting to local custom – great alleys and entrance ways to secluded courtyards.
Pingyao’s calling card is a consistent architectural style that represents a step back in time. It’s said to have China's only remaining original, intact Ming era wall circling the old town center. It has a quiet, laid back feel was such a nice break from the fast pace China’s major cities.
Quick fact – did you know that by 2020, China expects to have 15 cities with populations OVER 25 million residents. Amazing.
They use the street as social space much more than we do - lots of great opportunities to watch the locals like this fellow, who I think might have helped with some of the original construction. Also crowds like these seem to quickly form around Chinese chess, card games, or cute American girls working their way in the streets.
They have great guesthouses here - we found a wonderful one in the center of town. Here is one of the courtyards in the interior of our guest house. Buildings here, except for those on the main commercial streets, have rather modest front entrances that open up to eleborate courtyards and connecting buildings behind these walls. Really charming.
Seems like there were lots of kids here. Don’t think the one child policy is as rigorously enforced as in metro areas.
Lots of family shops, like this one specializing in twisted pastries. Pasteries are another of China’s under appreciated culinary joys… Don’t get me started on the quality of Chinese food.
Helped by some strange local fermented barley based beverage that, being open to local traditions, I readily consumed, I ponder the challenges facing China’s rural collectives in this era of globalization…
Cheers
Here are my travel partners adapting to local custom – great alleys and entrance ways to secluded courtyards.
Pingyao’s calling card is a consistent architectural style that represents a step back in time. It’s said to have China's only remaining original, intact Ming era wall circling the old town center. It has a quiet, laid back feel was such a nice break from the fast pace China’s major cities.
Quick fact – did you know that by 2020, China expects to have 15 cities with populations OVER 25 million residents. Amazing.
They use the street as social space much more than we do - lots of great opportunities to watch the locals like this fellow, who I think might have helped with some of the original construction. Also crowds like these seem to quickly form around Chinese chess, card games, or cute American girls working their way in the streets.
They have great guesthouses here - we found a wonderful one in the center of town. Here is one of the courtyards in the interior of our guest house. Buildings here, except for those on the main commercial streets, have rather modest front entrances that open up to eleborate courtyards and connecting buildings behind these walls. Really charming.
Seems like there were lots of kids here. Don’t think the one child policy is as rigorously enforced as in metro areas.
Lots of family shops, like this one specializing in twisted pastries. Pasteries are another of China’s under appreciated culinary joys… Don’t get me started on the quality of Chinese food.
Helped by some strange local fermented barley based beverage that, being open to local traditions, I readily consumed, I ponder the challenges facing China’s rural collectives in this era of globalization…
Cheers
Thursday, March 20, 2008
A little homesick?
We are in a good routine; life seems almost normal now.
We walk the girls to school, we see the same parents going through the same routine, rushing kids to school, wiping their faces or buttoning up their coats. We are stared at less but receive about the same number of smiles and nods. We have grown accustomed to our hot oatmeal in the morning with hot yo-tou (chinese fried dough) as our pre-school chaser. Even the afternoons of badmitten, walks in the neighborhood or visits to the store are enjoyable, relaxing, if somewhat mundane. (We still do take notice as kids pee in the streets or something really unusual hangs in a window (like a duck head) but we feel comfortable and relaxed here.
This is obviously good; we feel safe and we more relexad.
At the same time, it means that our life here is much less of an exciting adventure. It's not as fun when kids still call out your name and circle around you, as they do with Julia, but you can't understand all of their whispers. She tells me that she hears "American" "American" in Chinese all the time. What could they be saying?
It is certainly not as cute when you hear echoes of "hello" "hello" "what is your name?" as you walk down the street. We know now that there is little sense responding because that is usually about all they know or want to say.
Hana admitted last night that she was starting to miss people. I guess when the excitement wears off, it is natural to miss your house, your bed, your grandparents, your friends...and all the familiar people and things that you take for granted.
I too miss seeing the faces of parents and teachers at Everett and the people I have come to love at First Plymouth. What I wouldn't do for a random hug from someone on the street or a friend to just call and say, "hey friend, how about lunch today?" "Are we going to the gym tomorrow?" What I wouldn't give for a bonding session with my sister or one of my sister in laws ....with a glass of red wine in hand.
I never thought that I took my family and friends for granted, but today I just can't help thinking that I probably have. I wish I hadn't....
We are off this weekend to a town called Pingyao that is supposed to be like a historic Chinese village...hardly changed or affected by modernization or communism. We shall see. We will experience an overnight train and I am sure many adventures.
Hope you are all well..!
We walk the girls to school, we see the same parents going through the same routine, rushing kids to school, wiping their faces or buttoning up their coats. We are stared at less but receive about the same number of smiles and nods. We have grown accustomed to our hot oatmeal in the morning with hot yo-tou (chinese fried dough) as our pre-school chaser. Even the afternoons of badmitten, walks in the neighborhood or visits to the store are enjoyable, relaxing, if somewhat mundane. (We still do take notice as kids pee in the streets or something really unusual hangs in a window (like a duck head) but we feel comfortable and relaxed here.
This is obviously good; we feel safe and we more relexad.
At the same time, it means that our life here is much less of an exciting adventure. It's not as fun when kids still call out your name and circle around you, as they do with Julia, but you can't understand all of their whispers. She tells me that she hears "American" "American" in Chinese all the time. What could they be saying?
It is certainly not as cute when you hear echoes of "hello" "hello" "what is your name?" as you walk down the street. We know now that there is little sense responding because that is usually about all they know or want to say.
Hana admitted last night that she was starting to miss people. I guess when the excitement wears off, it is natural to miss your house, your bed, your grandparents, your friends...and all the familiar people and things that you take for granted.
I too miss seeing the faces of parents and teachers at Everett and the people I have come to love at First Plymouth. What I wouldn't do for a random hug from someone on the street or a friend to just call and say, "hey friend, how about lunch today?" "Are we going to the gym tomorrow?" What I wouldn't give for a bonding session with my sister or one of my sister in laws ....with a glass of red wine in hand.
I never thought that I took my family and friends for granted, but today I just can't help thinking that I probably have. I wish I hadn't....
We are off this weekend to a town called Pingyao that is supposed to be like a historic Chinese village...hardly changed or affected by modernization or communism. We shall see. We will experience an overnight train and I am sure many adventures.
Hope you are all well..!
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Figuring things out
We are all enjoying our China adventure but after this weekend, spending some time with Chinese friends and eating at yet another banquet, we realize we have a long way to go in our attempt to figure things out here. Last night we realized the one of the great things about travel is you are constantly challenged. Every day is a new word...or many more, you figure out how to mail or letter..or how not to..and you are constantly thinking about how this world and culture is different from your own. It is natural to make comparisons and to look for the similarities, because we all know or hope, that we all basically the same and, thus, the differences cannot be that great.
In fact, in some ways the differences are so great; most Americans could not imagine how hard Chinese people work. The construction sites are a 7 day 24 hour endeavor, the workers live on site in temporary housing and just work...they are, supposedly from rural areas, coming here for the good jobs and the allure of the city, but I doubt if they ever make it down to the city center or enjoy local food. I suspect that after 10-12 hours of hard labor, they sit around, smoke cigarettes and enjoy each other's company. There is no denying it, Chinese are incredibly social and enjoy communal life. (Is this a difference with Americans who spend so much time alone and with their TVS?)
The other unfamiliar reality is how average people life; the people who look just like you and me...work at the university, are teachers, or are deans of colleges live in apartments that are far worse than our college dorms or the shabbiest house on your block. Most of you reading this don't even have a shabby house on your block...and these are not even houses but are roughly the size a small new york city apartment with three rooms for four people...but w/out any of the standard features...ie clean walls, a decent bathroom, or even a kitchen to speak of.
Even though we have been here a week, I must say that I didn't expect this...I somewhat expected my well-dressed, polished colleagues to have homes like mine...or better. What world do I really inhabit? Do I really consider myself well-travelled? I keep reminding myself that it is easy to make assumptions and to search for the similarities when, in fact, there are so many differences.
Yet, and note the third difference here..is the level of generosity and the hospitality. By our count last night, we have been taken to elaborate feasts 5 times..more than one per week. This does not include all the other ways people have tried to welcome us to China, Xi'an and our neighborhood. The gifts that the girls receive at school...most hand-made by the kids themselves..I am not sure how people pay for these feasts and gifts, but they somehow feel that they must and that it is still not enough..and then they apologize for any lack of perfections or problems and misunderstandings we may have in China. They certainly know there are big differences between China and the U.S...and they apologize for our discomfort here...(by God, we asked for this...didn't we? Are we uncomfortable?? I would be embarrassed to detail the minor irritations)
Finally..at least for this week....is the desire here for harmony..which is largely lacking in the U.S. either on a personal or public level. Here, rather than speaking one's mind and "setting things straight" or someone straight, there is search and a real effort made for cooperation and harmony. We had a little problem at the girls' school...the children were getting too excited about the blond American girls and our girls were feeling overwhelmed..The very next day, I was in the school for a full hour of discussion...and reassurance. The specific problem was never addressed directly (never talk about problems directly ), but I thanked them for their efforts, time and patience and they thanked me for raising hard working, well behaved daughters who bring freshness and excitement ..and English..to their classrooms.
While we sat complimenting each other and developing strategies for the other kids to adjust and my girls to feel more comfortable, a fellow teacher was scolding some boys for bad behavior. (so, yet another difference...discipline is an absolute requirement in school and teachers RULE!! Yes, Ms. Nore..you read that correctly and parents even thank teachers for being strict...! Frankly. that teacher scared me and I doubt if those boys misbehaved again.)
In some ways, I feel like we just arrived when I was struggling to say thank you and figure out where to buy water...In other ways, we have all come a long way..Julia now understands her playmates more at school and we can all order in restaurants. Yet, we have so much more to figure out..and I guess that's why we are here..to figure out more about China, but also our own country and ourselves... as for me now, I promise to start each day with something that I am grateful for...and today, I am truly grateful for this experience. What a gift!
In fact, in some ways the differences are so great; most Americans could not imagine how hard Chinese people work. The construction sites are a 7 day 24 hour endeavor, the workers live on site in temporary housing and just work...they are, supposedly from rural areas, coming here for the good jobs and the allure of the city, but I doubt if they ever make it down to the city center or enjoy local food. I suspect that after 10-12 hours of hard labor, they sit around, smoke cigarettes and enjoy each other's company. There is no denying it, Chinese are incredibly social and enjoy communal life. (Is this a difference with Americans who spend so much time alone and with their TVS?)
The other unfamiliar reality is how average people life; the people who look just like you and me...work at the university, are teachers, or are deans of colleges live in apartments that are far worse than our college dorms or the shabbiest house on your block. Most of you reading this don't even have a shabby house on your block...and these are not even houses but are roughly the size a small new york city apartment with three rooms for four people...but w/out any of the standard features...ie clean walls, a decent bathroom, or even a kitchen to speak of.
Even though we have been here a week, I must say that I didn't expect this...I somewhat expected my well-dressed, polished colleagues to have homes like mine...or better. What world do I really inhabit? Do I really consider myself well-travelled? I keep reminding myself that it is easy to make assumptions and to search for the similarities when, in fact, there are so many differences.
Yet, and note the third difference here..is the level of generosity and the hospitality. By our count last night, we have been taken to elaborate feasts 5 times..more than one per week. This does not include all the other ways people have tried to welcome us to China, Xi'an and our neighborhood. The gifts that the girls receive at school...most hand-made by the kids themselves..I am not sure how people pay for these feasts and gifts, but they somehow feel that they must and that it is still not enough..and then they apologize for any lack of perfections or problems and misunderstandings we may have in China. They certainly know there are big differences between China and the U.S...and they apologize for our discomfort here...(by God, we asked for this...didn't we? Are we uncomfortable?? I would be embarrassed to detail the minor irritations)
Finally..at least for this week....is the desire here for harmony..which is largely lacking in the U.S. either on a personal or public level. Here, rather than speaking one's mind and "setting things straight" or someone straight, there is search and a real effort made for cooperation and harmony. We had a little problem at the girls' school...the children were getting too excited about the blond American girls and our girls were feeling overwhelmed..The very next day, I was in the school for a full hour of discussion...and reassurance. The specific problem was never addressed directly (never talk about problems directly ), but I thanked them for their efforts, time and patience and they thanked me for raising hard working, well behaved daughters who bring freshness and excitement ..and English..to their classrooms.
While we sat complimenting each other and developing strategies for the other kids to adjust and my girls to feel more comfortable, a fellow teacher was scolding some boys for bad behavior. (so, yet another difference...discipline is an absolute requirement in school and teachers RULE!! Yes, Ms. Nore..you read that correctly and parents even thank teachers for being strict...! Frankly. that teacher scared me and I doubt if those boys misbehaved again.)
In some ways, I feel like we just arrived when I was struggling to say thank you and figure out where to buy water...In other ways, we have all come a long way..Julia now understands her playmates more at school and we can all order in restaurants. Yet, we have so much more to figure out..and I guess that's why we are here..to figure out more about China, but also our own country and ourselves... as for me now, I promise to start each day with something that I am grateful for...and today, I am truly grateful for this experience. What a gift!
Saturday, March 15, 2008
A night in China
Crowds swarm everywhere, you can barely take a breath when another one comes
Then you see the lights, like little snowflakes staying in one place
They are so colorful: red, blue, yellow, green... They are so pretty
you can almost imagine, the little snowflakes falling on top of your head
You go on to the wall, where you can see the whole city of Xi'an
There you can see lamps everywhere, then you see the people, crowds swarming in the road
The people give way to the traffic, traffic is like little ants swarming around their colony.
Then you see the lights, like little snowflakes staying in one place
They are so colorful: red, blue, yellow, green... They are so pretty
you can almost imagine, the little snowflakes falling on top of your head
You go on to the wall, where you can see the whole city of Xi'an
There you can see lamps everywhere, then you see the people, crowds swarming in the road
The people give way to the traffic, traffic is like little ants swarming around their colony.
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