The Uses of Adversity

A long time ago, back in our Polish Communist days, I read a good deal of Timothy Garton Ash who wrote a great essay about Uses of Adversity and life in communist countries. I find it so relevant here.

I had a most interesting class today and the long and short of it is that already (after a brief 6 weeks), I have discovered that there are least two Chinas. Both live side by side, everyone knows they both exist, they accept this and continue to live as if there were really only one China. The one China is the one that everyone talks about; it is not just the official line, but it is also what people tell themselves, everyday and on lots of levels. There are too many examples to focus on one but what happens is that everyone is searching, desperately for everything to work out, go smoothly, be positive and good...something they can say, "yes this is working," "see our economy is moving forward", peace will prevail in the world. This official China and the one that exists politically but also the one adopted my most in society.

The other China is what really happens everyday and everyone knows it. ..it is that life here remains so hard, people are struggling, their apartments are so small and every decision has to be approved by someone. Their lives are controlled, decisions are imposed on them, and they know their limits. Everyone is aware of this second reality but they also know that there is so little or nothing they can do to change this. So, why acknowledge it? What can one person do to change a place/culture/society like China. This is the reality: things don't work as the plan suggests, most people cannot buy most of the luxury goods that fill the shop and everyone is "coloring within the lines" only because they know what will happen if they don't. Yet, this reality is truly so awful and so unlikely to change, why bother getting it to it..why bother even acknowledging it. Instead, focus on the positive and go around the lines when you can and hope you don't get caught.

I learned much of my Polish by hearing and practising how to complain about communist life, politics and the unfairness of the world. I would sit with friends and hear about their lives, the choices they were forced to make, the lack of opportunities and their sacrifices and the indignity they had to face in so many ways we as Americans could not imagine.. Often, there was not even a bathroom in the apartment...but at these times, when we were all together, eating, drinking and bonding...nothing else seemed to matter. At least together we had reality and at least when we were together we were not forced to "live within the lie".

There were many uses and lessons for adversity.

Today was the first day that a few students confided in me that they too acknowledged this second China...moreover, they long for change and even more opening up. I don't think they had anything particular in mind but I just think they long for more opportunity to express themselves as individuals.

Yet, if you come here for a short visit, I think you would be most surprised by the smiles, the kindness and the optimism...everyone is indeed hopeful and China will march on and they will march together. Where the Chinese march to and how long it takes is anyone's guess but what is not is that even if they don't say it or won't even directly address the multitude of problems, discomfort or indignities they face, everyone, underneath it all, knows there are at least two Chinas.

I continue to wonder if I will have any of these Poland-like bonding sessions, will our knowledge of China stay as superficial as some would like it to be...Jeff says that he will not go to another huge feast where we all sit around the table and compliment each other excessively and then eat and eat...and at the end share some "real thoughts" through toasts.

I can see what adversity has done for so many Chinese..they are incredibly hard working and unbelievably competitive (imagine how difficult everything is when you have to compete against 1.3 billion) but what else will it do...for them? our girls? us?

Pingyao

We took our first trip out of Xi’an last week to the town of Pingyao, an incredibly quaint UNESCO world heritage site that has an unique collection of consistent Ming / Qing era architecture, within the reach of an overnight train from Xian. Rather than add to the number of words on this blog, as it seems we've been a bit wordy of late, I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking...



Here are my travel partners adapting to local custom – great alleys and entrance ways to secluded courtyards.





Pingyao’s calling card is a consistent architectural style that represents a step back in time. It’s said to have China's only remaining original, intact Ming era wall circling the old town center. It has a quiet, laid back feel was such a nice break from the fast pace China’s major cities.

Quick fact – did you know that by 2020, China expects to have 15 cities with populations OVER 25 million residents. Amazing.




They use the street as social space much more than we do - lots of great opportunities to watch the locals like this fellow, who I think might have helped with some of the original construction. Also crowds like these seem to quickly form around Chinese chess, card games, or cute American girls working their way in the streets.




They have great guesthouses here - we found a wonderful one in the center of town. Here is one of the courtyards in the interior of our guest house. Buildings here, except for those on the main commercial streets, have rather modest front entrances that open up to eleborate courtyards and connecting buildings behind these walls. Really charming.




Seems like there were lots of kids here. Don’t think the one child policy is as rigorously enforced as in metro areas.








Lots of family shops, like this one specializing in twisted pastries. Pasteries are another of China’s under appreciated culinary joys… Don’t get me started on the quality of Chinese food.




Helped by some strange local fermented barley based beverage that, being open to local traditions, I readily consumed, I ponder the challenges facing China’s rural collectives in this era of globalization…



Cheers